Welcome to Istorya Mobile Audio Enthusiast
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Move The SUBWOOFER To The Car
Let me be the first to welcome you to this thread. We would encourage everyone here to avoid having flamers on the thread, in effect it would allow me to keep the board as homy and as helpful to anyone as it can. This would also enable Istorya members to hear your concerns and learn more about this hobby. 
If we see that the thread is unjustly used for profit, personal, or professional benefit, we will do some necessary actions. The Istorya Mobile Audio Enthusiasts thread is open to all for information gathering, we expect everyone to use the board accordingly.
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As a topic starter and a platinum member we can delete any members posts if it acts as a threat or problem to this thread!
Let us respect each one here and built good friendships together 
Thank You! More power to this thread
Helpful links: 
The BIGGEST LIE in Car Audio:
http://www.kotseaudioclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=14041
AUDIO definiton of TERMS:
http://kotseaudioclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12299
Subwoofer Enclosure Design:
http://www.danmarx.org/audioinnovation/theories.html
Subwoofer Wiring Guide:
http://kotseaudioclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9948
Diy links 
Deadening:
http://kotseaudioclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28061
Tweeter Pod on Sail Panel:
http://kotseaudioclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27922
The no look setup builthttp:
http://kotseaudioclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21382
One Team : One Vision : One Hobby 
Other links: for Istorya Mobile Audio Enthusiasts Buy and Sell
https://www.istorya.net/forums/index....tml#msg2280087
Important Faqs
By Niel aka. blade4683
1. car's electrical system
* using a 100A alt is not enough. you have to know at what engine rpm the alt is giving out 100A otherwise your system is getting much less (this is why some people adjust their engine's choke to increase the engine rpm at idle... to keep the alt's rotor rotating at the desired rpm for the desired output current)
* even if he's using a kinetik battery (or 2), if the alt is still stock, the kinetiks will have a shorter-than-expected life
* to power his entire system (assuming 1200wrms, 1-1000wrms for sub and 1-200wrms for front seps), his electrical system needs to produce 83.3A at 14.4v, or 86.96A at 13.8v (note higher current at lower voltages)... and that's assuming nothing but his sound system is on.
* at power output in the kilowatt range, no amount of capacitance (by using stiffening caps) will substitute for an aftermarket alternator built to do the job
* this is also why some inexperienced users often blow their "main" and amp fuses... to keep up with the high power drawn by amp(s), current flow increases to keep up with sagging voltages.
2. amp's efficiency (by virtue of its type/class)
* class AB amps are about 60% efficient, while class D amps are much more efficient at up to 80+%
* even if the electrical system is giving 1000w of power, see how much of it drives the speaker and how much is converted to heat...
* to have an amp that produces 1000wrms at its speaker terminals, the manufacturers need to engineer the amp to compensate for these losses. so if indeed the amp powering the sub really gives out a true 1000wrms, it will actually demand more power at its input.
3. amp's actual output power
* in fairness, some amps are also underrated. one can refer to what they call an amp's "birthsheet" to see how much power is actually produced by the amp (take note though, at what operating voltage the amps are running at)
* my dls ca-10 is advertised to produce 1000wrms, but benchtests results reported by users in other forums report this amp can put out up to 1300wrms to 1ohm at 14.4v. unfortunately my electrical system can only give it up to 14.1v.
4. amp's power supply type (regulated or unregulated)
* for amps with a regulated psu, they can keep rated power at its output over a wider range of input power, while for amps with unregulated psu's, output power is dependent on how much input power it gets from the car's electrical system.
5. sub's sensitivity
* this is a figure that gives one an idea how "easy" or "difficult" it is to move the sub's cone (i.e. produce sound). higher figures mean sub will be relatively easy to drive
6. sub's true power rating
* for this discussion and for simplicity sake, lets just say all dd subs are underrated by 200w. given this, wouldn't this mean that to run the sub at max power, the amp has to provide and additional 200w above the sub's rated power?
7. amp's protection circuits
* any decent amp will have a protection circuit to protect it from excess heat or from drawing too much power (in addition to the installed fuses, as fuses take more time before they blow). running the amp cooler will mean lesser to no instances this protection circuit is triggered, meaning lesser amp cut-offs when showing off your system or when enjoying music at high volume
* note that some manufacturers tend to keep their amps running on the safer side of things, and end up engineering their amps with lower-than-necessary thresholds for their protection circuits (i.e. protection circuits kicking in even "sooner" than expected)
setting an amp's gains is another story... the above presumes amp's gains are reasonably set (meaning at no instance will the amp be clipping during operation).
Istorya Mobile Audio Enthusiasts (Diy, Tips, Faqs) Share your Car Audio System
pwede mag pa audition sa imu sakyanan ?
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